Loving Lisbon ; Travel Mail European Breaks Portugal's Perfectly Formed Capital Is a Romantic Blend of Pretty Backstreets, Poetry and Pastries, Says Tony Jefferies

Daily MailOctober 29, 2004

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Summary


FERNANDO PESSOA was looking glum.

Sitting outside his favourite cafe, watching the world go by, you'd expect him to feel contented. But no, his look was at best reflective, at worst downright grumpy.

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Loving Lisbon ; Travel Mail European Breaks Portugal's Perfectly Formed Capital Is a Romantic Blend of Pretty Backstreets, Poetry and Pastries, Says Tony Jefferies

I said as much to the waiter at A Brasileira when he brought me my bica - a nerve-jangling shot of strong black coffee that Lisbonites, or Lisboetas, use to ease themselves into the day.

'Of course he's miserable,' said the waiter, gesturing at the bronze statue a couple of y...

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